El pan de Cea se queda sin relevo generacional

Before the sun rises, the first light Rosa sees is the fire she lights in her oven. This is how she begins each day in the Calviño de Cea bakery, in Orense. “It belonged to my in-laws and now my husband and I take care of it,” explains Rosa.

This is one of the twelve workshops who make Cea bread “in an artisanal way, just as it was done in the 13th century,” says Rosa. In fact “it is the oldest private oven in the town.” However, despite the pride that escapes him when showing us what his way of life is, regrets that his days are numbered.

“I’m not just referring to this oven, but to all of them. They are family bakeries, with a long tradition, but that is going to end up being lost because our children are not willing to pick up our legacy. They know the job and see that it involves a lot of sacrifice to have little profit. And I am very sad, because the job is lost but also a way of living in rural areas. We would need help to prevent this from happening,” says Rosa.

Clients arrive from Madrid and La Rioja

As Rosa explains this, the door to her bakery keeps opening. She addresses her neighbors by her name. “We all know each other.” This is what she refers to with the job and life in the countryside: the closeness and proximity of the productof tradition, with the people and the consumer.

But the usual ones are not the only ones who come here. From Madrid or from La Rioja they have arrived today for your pieces of bread. A kilo of bread with a designation of origin that sells for 3 euros. They, who come from far away, are surprised by the price, but even more so by the elaboration behind it.

“laborious and long” production process

“We make a batch or two each day, depending on sales. In each batch we make about 45-50 pieces of bread. It is a laborious and long process,” Rosa explains.

“First we mix it in the mixer with the sourdough, flour, salt and water. For an hour we knead and then we transfer everything to the trough, where we make a large dough and transfer it to a basket prepared with cloths. There we go cover well and we will wait another hour for it to grow. Then we return it to the trough and work on it again before proceeding to rolling. For this, we are going to spread a blanket and a cloth on the table. There we will begin to shape the our buns and when we have made them all, we cover them with another cloth and another blanket and let them ferment. We repeat this process three times. We call this tenda. And from there, to the oven, which we lit first thing in the morning.

In total, the process of making A batch of 45 pieces takes about 6 hours.. “And to this we must add another 8 hours of work for the sale and distribution of bread.”

An ancestral profession that right now does not find, in the new generations, the dedication and will it requires. A profession that is already fighting to survive.

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Source: Antena3

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